Hike to a Tibetan Refugee Camp
It's worth repeating, we are not spending any project money on this part of the trip. We cover our own expenses while we
enjouy a few days of R&R.
Second day in Jomson. We decided Madhav would drive back to Pokhara while Jeff, Rick and Cordella would stay one more
night in Jomson and take an early morning flight to Pokhara to meet up. Madhav offered to take 3 off-duty national guard
soldiers with him since he had empty seats in the car. We said good bye until tomorrow and then looked forward to what we
would do with an extra day in Jomson.
This was going to be a day of new friendships and sharing 3 cups of tea. When we stayed at Tatopani, Rick met a man named
Triple and chatted for a while. Triple mentioned he owned a hotel in Jomson so when we arrived we stopped and chose to
stay there, Hotel Om's Home in lower Mustang Valley. It reminded us of a lodge in Vermont complete with wood burning
stove and outside slate patio. Our second morning we were eating breakfast on the patio when Triple stopped by. We shared
a few cups of tea and then he invited us to join him and some friends on a hike. WARNING - When someone invites you on a
like in the Himalayas you better ask for all the details before agreeing (ha ha). Triple, his friend Basanta, Suneta (from
Kathmandu) and Suneta (from India), Cordella, Jeff and Rick went on a hike. Cordella was hesitant after just re-cooperating
from the long bumpy car ride but Triple described it as a one hour hike to a monistary. It turned into a much longer
adventure. We hiked to a Buddhist shrine on a hill just outside what looked like a small village. We rounded the corner and
the village was much larger than we thought because it was hidden behind stone walls to protect it from the wind. At times
the wind was blowing at least 45mph. In the village we first went into a family temple. The inside was painted with murals
from floor to ceiling. Incense were burning and the family brought us tea to enjoy while we say on cushions on the floor. We
then walked a little further to the main temple for the village. It was a bit larger and also covered in murals. We rested a while
while we admired the details. Triple led us in a prayer for Eric and Cordella lit incense which was very emotional for all of us.
As we gathered our strength we put our shoes back on and hiked down from the village - not back to the hotel. Cordella was
doing well so we decided to venture on to another village for lunch. After an hour long hike which included an 8inch trail that
ran along a high hillside, over a foot bridge, jump over a stream, up a dirt road into 50pmh headwinds we arrived a t the next
village. It was beautiful and almost felt like a small Italian village with cobble stones, narrow streets, shops with wooden
shutters and people smiling and welcoming us. We first went into a shop where Triple knew the owner (he knew everyone in
all the villages). The shop owner poured us apple brandy and after tasting it straight he cut it with fresh pressed apple juice.
We sat out side the shop drinking and watching the people in the street. A little further down the street we Jeff finally found
his pie shop. We had apple chocolate crumble pie and more brandy. It was such a beautiful setting and the weather was
perfect for a hike(70deg F). After finishing the pie and thanking the baker we stopped at a gift shop, bought a few items and
spoke with the vendor who told us he has a sister living in Minnesota. We bought our items and Cordella was still feeling
pretty good so Triple convinced us to continue on to one more location - an old Tibetan refugee camp for lunch. Tibetans
fled in Tibet in the 1950's and settled in the Annapurna mountain range. This is one of the remaining camps that eventually
expanded into a small village where the Tibetans still live. We all agreed to order the same dish (chicken chowmein) to make
it easier for the cook to prepare. We sat outside and shared a beer while we watched people deliver the ingredients to the
kitchen one item at a time (noodles, jars of spices, fresh picked greens, and vegetables. While they cooked lunch we
examined the solar ovens that were nearby and spoke to a woman about how they use them and where they came from.
Everyone enjoyed a huge plate of chowmein and cold drinks. For the women in our group this was the end of the hike. Triple
called for a car to carry them back to the hotel. They had to hike back down to the road and Cordella found it easier going
over the foot bridge the second time except for when the motorcycle passed her at the mid point. After lunch our group split
up and the guys agreed to hike back with Triple going on a different route. Little did we know the trail would take us 1,000
feet higher into the mountains (hills by Himalayan standards). Jeff, Rick, Basanta and Triple steadily climbed the trail around
narrow edges with BIG drop offs, facing a good 40mph wind. The views were amazing and so were the stones along the trail.
Basanta and Rick lagged far behind as they continuously stopped to crack open the back egg shaped rocks looking for fossils
(found none). They also loaded their pockets with attractive stones they picked up. By the end of the hike Rick, Jeff and
Basanta all had pockets full of rocks. The trail just kind of faded out and the guys were left looking for a path. Some went low
and some went high on what looked like goat paths and they eventually all landed at a dry stream which took them straight
down the face of the hill. A dog appeared and they tried to convince the dog to show us the way home with no luck. The dog
just followed along behind us. As the sun started to set the group rounded the last hill, crossed the steam and ascended back
to the road where they started out earlier that morning. It was another 45 minutes and we arrived at the village of Jomson.
We felt like real trekkers having been hiking all day. Weary, sunburn, windburn and hungry we arrived back at the hotel and
Tripple bought out several big bottles of beer to celebrate our day.
After cleaning up we met in the dinning room and shared a number of dishes together and some home made brandy. We
exchanged addresses, phone numbers and made plans for a reunion when we return to Nepal for the completion of our
project. We made some good friends today. As it got late and knowing we had to walk to the airport at 6:30AM the next day
we said good byes and went to our rooms. That's a full day in the Himalayas we will never forget.